Fluids

What is everyone using for their fluids like engine oil, trans, diff and brake etc?

Motul FTW!

Got any questions in regards to Motul?

would you like to list which ones u suggests our forum members use for different purposes?

To be honest, I'm not even running synthetic in my car, there's simply no need for how I drive it.

That being said... Pennzoil Yellow for Oil, Quaker this time... recommended by Tofu

Honda OEM for other stuff

man make a list that means i gotta think, brain too dead after being in 604. I'll make a list later.

How many km's are you running the mineral for in your car before you change and how do you drive?

I change my oil nowhere near often enough 'cause I don't drive. :p Stretched this one to like 4-5 mo.. should do it this weekend.

Simple Castrol GTX, 10W30 in winter, and 20W50 in summer. Why?

Rotary = burns oil by design, therefore (cheap) synthetic = bad. :p I really should probably run a little bit of premix, too, just in case (even though my OMP still seems to work), but I'm lazy and again, don't drive that much. Also, the super-heavy weights are what's in the manual. You don't run 5W30 unless you're driving in sub-zero temps...

Everything else has been pretty much stock - I mean, my car is 22 yrs. old and not really designed for all the 'new' fluids. Stock green radiator fluid, etc. Only thing special is I have to have the LSD additive put in the rear diff when that gets changed.

usually run non synthetics for older cars.. its better for them.


synthetics are a big no no for rotaries, they'll burn right up.

castrol GTX is more likely to sludge than regular Quaker or Pennzoil based on what i've seen. not to mention its a fact that the Castrol is actually CHEAPER than Pennzoil to make. the oil seems to sludge less with Quaker State though.. and usually i reccommend those lead footed drivers with Quaker state, so you dont have to do an engine flush when you change your oil =P

as for running top tier synthetic oils, Royal purple or AMS oil is the way to go. Motul would be third. Royal purple has been proven and tested that it offers the best protection out of other synthetics, AMS oil being nearly as good. Mobil and Castrol SYNTEC isnt as good. so for you people out there that demand the best, go Royal Purple or AMS oil.

as for filters.. nothing beats an original factory spec filter. sans the OEM honda ones, (cuz those are just fram with honda shells on it) Fram filters are not too bad.. the ones we give out at mr lube is crap. the Quaker state and pennzoil filters out there are pretty good in quality actually, and offer pretty good filtration.

meh.

this is just my three cents. thats' what you get when u work at mr lube =P

there is a lot of debate regarding synth in rotaries.

the general consensus seems to be, that if you do run synth, to make sure you get a high quality one(i.e. RP and the like).

i've used RP in my last 2 or 3 RX7's with no problems except for the latest one, but i blame the fact that it was a jdm car, that i am pretty sure sat for a long time.

i might start using mineral oils tho...

Raid3n wrote:

there is a lot of debate regarding synth in rotaries.

the general consensus seems to be, that if you do run synth, to make sure you get a high quality one(i.e. RP and the like).

i've used RP in my last 2 or 3 RX7's with no problems except for the latest one, but i blame the fact that it was a jdm car, that i am pretty sure sat for a long time.

i might start using mineral oils tho...

well, there are synthetic blends for rotaries.. cept they're hell expensive. i forgot which company makes them.. but they do exsist.

RP still burns.. sorta =P

mineral oils are health(ier) for rotaries @_@

this is what you're thinking of probably.
Idemitsu.

http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_207.htm

its about the same price as RP

$7.50 / qt

300V COMPETITION 15W50 FTW